AFRICA'S BIG FIVE
September 2016: Kris and I are getting ready to head over to South Africa. Leaving on September 14th and flying to Johannesburg, South Africa. Enjoy a few days on our own in Pretoria and then hook up with the group. We have a pretty large group made up of 6 from England, 5 from Australia, 1 German, and us from the USA. The general trip runs north from Pretoria and then south into Kruger National Park and through Swaziland. It then follows the coast down to Cape Town. We will spend a few days in Cape Town and then travel back to Kruger National Park for a 4-day Safari.
ENGLISH: Michael who is a non rider(fighter pilot in real life), Steven, Paul, Alec, and Patrick they will be with us for the first 7 days. John also from South Hampton will ride the entire tour. GERMANY: Kristine is the only female rider, the rest are pillions (backseat). Australians: Roger and Darryl a father and son team, Danny and Rebecca, Wig and Fiona, Lindsay and Diane and then the Americans, that's us, Jay and Kris.
I plan on trying to post every couple of days but a lot depends on my picture taking and internet access. I hope you enjoy following along on my journey with us.
ENGLISH: Michael who is a non rider(fighter pilot in real life), Steven, Paul, Alec, and Patrick they will be with us for the first 7 days. John also from South Hampton will ride the entire tour. GERMANY: Kristine is the only female rider, the rest are pillions (backseat). Australians: Roger and Darryl a father and son team, Danny and Rebecca, Wig and Fiona, Lindsay and Diane and then the Americans, that's us, Jay and Kris.
I plan on trying to post every couple of days but a lot depends on my picture taking and internet access. I hope you enjoy following along on my journey with us.
WEDNESDAY SEPT. 14: The plane ride was an adventure, started at 3:00 am on Wednesday mourning to travel to Dayton. Plane to Chicago and then on to Washington DC Dulles. Boarded the South African Airways plan at 5:00 pm for a 16 hour flight with an additional hour on the ground for gas (13 tons of aviation fuel) at Dakar, Senegal. Finally arrived at Johannesburg, Thursday evening at 5:30 pm their time. Picked up and transported to hotel and then went to dinner. Back to the hotel for some sleep before a bonus day in Pretoria.
FRIDAY SEPT. 16: Today was a bonus day and we traveled with a few of the other travelers to Soweto Township. It is located outside Johannesburg and is where many of the poorer Africans live. Around 1976 the Afrikaans enacted a law which made all Africans learn Afrikaans in school. Soweto primarily a black and ethnic area protested with students staying out of school. As the protests grew, they led to clashes with law enforcement. In one such protest Hector Pieterson was shot and killed, on June 16, 1976 and picked up by his brother and sister is by his side, he became a rallying cry for black Africans against Affrikaanas. We also visited Nelson Mandela's home. The tin sheds are homes of the poorest people. No running water or toilets. The evening was capped off with a welcome dinner at the owners home. Fantastic, trip should be a lot of fun, Will try to put captions on pictures when I get a chance.
DAY 1 SATURDAY SEPT. 17 PRETORIA: Got the Bikes, signed all the paperwork and ready to go. 5 Brits, only 4 riding, 1 in the van, 5 Aussies, 1 German, and 1 from the USA-That's US!. we are headed off to a game preserve Dinokeng NP just outside of Pretoria. You can ride your motorbike thru the park, just be faster than the lion or the slowest rider. We saw Wilderbeast, giraffes, zebra, and impalas. Our two guides are Jullian and Johnathan, both great riders and very knowledgeable about the country. To become a National Tour Guide you must take 2 1/2 years if both classes and practical training. At the end must pass a board test. Jullians was oral but has since been replaced with a written test.
DAY 2 SUNDAY SEPT 18 PRETORIA TO MAGOEBASKLOOF: The day is lousy, the girls are in the van, it's rainy and chilly as we start out on the tour. It only gets a little better as we travel 310 K's (205 miles). we end the ride in a steady rainfall on the mountain top in Magoebaskloof, shrouded in fog. No fun in rain gear all day. The views are probably spectacular but we didn't see any=plus the faucets didn't work, Kris had to wash her hair in the sink and the electricity went out on a regular basis all evening.
DAY 3 MONDAY SEPT 19 PANORAMA ROUTE: Came off the mountain to the same chilly, wet weather and fog. Kris started in the van with the other ladies, I in rain gear. Supposed to be nice down the mountain. Sure enough it got better. At the first stop Kris was the only pillion to join the guys. We went to the 3 Rondavels, Bourke's Luck Potholes, and God's Window. After a poor start it turned into a great day. Jullian was leading us on some great roads. I have tried to use the GoPro but it is hard to edit the footage so that will probably have to wait until I get back to the USA. Stayed at the Hotel Numbi, really nice grounds and room. In the Evening we went to the Shanganai Cultural Village and listened to their history, watched their dances, saw the King and the Witch Doctor. Prior to dinner we had snacks: Impala meat and Dried Worms, You know I will try anything-gave it a try but the worms were too much, no seconds there! Dinner was a pot of chicken stew, maize-pop(main starch) and homemade bread. An interesting night.
DAY 4 TUESDAY SEPT 20 KRUGER NP: Started the day at 4:15 so we could head for the Safari by 5:00 and then on to Kruger National Park. We entered at the Phabeni gate near Hazyview and did a U shape Game Drive and went out the Numbi gate. Our guide Christman was fantastic. He knew it all and had been a guide for the past 10 years. It started out rather chilly in the safari vehicle but when we saw our first Bull Elephant it was great. Spent 4 hours on the game drive and saw 3 of the Big 5; Elephant, Cape Buffalo and Rhino. No Lions. Other animals which we saw were: Zebras, Giraffes (they are magnificent), Baboons, Warthogs, Kudu, Waterbucks, and Impalas. Impalas are like deer in the US, they are just lion food. In the afternoon, the guys on the trip took a high speed run on the LongTom Pass, it is 2150 meters high and is named after the cannon that the English used against the Boers. The guns were placed on the mountaintop and fired as the Boers crossed the valley. the ride was great fun as the English would say, 250 KM of great roads and fast curves. Ended the night with steaks and baked potatoes as we celebrated Jullians 51st Birthday.
DAY 5 WEDNESDAY SEPT. 21 HAZYVIEW TO SWAZILAND: Today was gorgeous, weather was warm 86. After a good breakfast we started toward Swaziland. Banana Plantations and tracts of tall pines lined the road. Lumber seemed to be a major economy source for this region. Traveling to Swaziland took us by the White River, nice roads and mountainous area. Crossing the border was interesting, left South Africa and then thru Immigration and Customs for Swaziland, then pay a 50 Rand Road Tax. Then went to the cultural village for the night.
DAY 6 THURSDAY SEPT 22 SWAZILAND TO ST. LUCIA: Our English friends leave today and head back to JoBurg for their flight home only did a 7 day tour. They were great fun and really enjoyable to have on the tour. A great group of guys, they will be missed. Getting out of Swailand was a pain in the butt. We had to present both our international and regular driver licenses and then they went thru some of the top boxes of the guys on the tour. You better arrive between 7 and 10 pm or else you are not getting into South Africa, they close. At the gas stations, garages here, they pump your gas, they make very little like waitresses and work for tips as a major part of their income. Continued on to lunch at a Whimpy's national chain, kinda like a Denny's. Not good, we won't be back. Rolled into St. Lucia about 4:30, long day in the saddle but a really nice ride. The trees are really neat, yellow ones are called Yellow Fever Trees and also they have tall straight Eculyptus trees. Dinner was fresh fish that the waiter said he had to slap to keep dead. A great meal to end a great day.
DAY 7 FRIDAY SEPT 23 ST. LUCIA REST DAY: For a rest day it was kinda tough, Rough seas, Rain and not very warm, but we did see whales. Kris got seasick but watching the whales was spectacular. Saw flukes, tails, headers, and a few breeches. The boat seemed awful small to go out into a pretty large ocean. Kris said it was like something out of the movies. You make a beach entry, where the captain goes as fast as he can straight into the waves near the coast. Airborne and then down into the trough between the waves hard-. The water would pour over the sides of the boat and front. The water remained rough with about 8-10 foot waves, so no pictures used the GoPro but don't know how that turned out, the captain cancelled the afternoon tour.
DAY 8 SATURDAY SEPT 24 ST. LUCIA TO ORIBI GORGE: The day started cloudy but Kris was on the back of the bike. It turned into the best day of the trip 75-78 sunny and no wind, perfect. Stopped by the Indian Ocean for lunch with the waves crashing on the beach. You can't believe the highways here, people walking everywhere on them, setting up a stand selling fruit , and riding bicycles as the traffic travels 120 km/hour, thats about 80 miles per hour, the speed limit, usually traveling faster up to 90-95. As we turned into Port Shepstone you looked left and the Indian Ocean was visible for most of the remainder of the trip. Beautiful views of the Ocean. Got to the hotel and walked to the Oribi Gorge. Too deep for me. However great sights and I actually walked on the suspension bridge 1/2 way over and back. I'm a chicken.
DAY 9 SUNDAY SEPT 25 ORIBI GORGE TO COFFEE BAY: Nice breakfast and walk around the grounds of Oribi Hotel - No shower in our room though. Kris and I think it is a conspiracy against us. Riding was great today, nice sweepers (long tight curves) through the valleys and up and down the mountains. Went thru a few cities. It was Sunday so very congested with lots of people. Early in the day we saw lot of people walking to church. Walking is the main means of transportation of the poor or common people.Still a lot of trash along the roadways, Beautify America really makes a difference. Beautiful vistas as we travel along the Indian Ocean to our hotel. Picturesque Coffee Bay got its name from the grounding of a ship caring coffee beans, which refused to grow in the salty soil. the coast is known as the Wild Coast due to the unpredictablity of the weather, pounding breakers and boiling seas in stormy conditions. The seacoast is the graveyard for many a ship in the past 200 years. Tomorrow I will be swimming in the Indian Ocean. Hope it is warm.
DAY 10 MONDAY SEPT. 26 COFFEE BAY REST DAY: Nothing doing, slept late, late breakfast, walked the beach, went into the water, Indian Ocean pretty neat, waves are really rough, and pound the beach. Lunch, sat on the veranda, moved down to the beach chairs facing the sun, Kris took a nap, dinner, and time to get ready for a long ride tomorrow. We will do 450+ km tomorrow as we travel down the coast to Port Alfred.
DAY 11 TUESDAY SEPT. 27 COFFEE BAY TO PORT ALFRED: Good day, cloudy and cool, but we took breaks and covered the 450 km in pretty good time. First stop was Nelson Mandela's Museum where he grew up and went to primary school. Most of the exhibits have been removed so it was disappointing. Looked like rain so Kris and two other ladies wimped out and went in the van. Sure enough it did rain for about 15 minutes but then stopped so the ladies hopped back on the bikes. We also stopped in East London for lunch at a very nice restaurant located on the Indian Ocean. Port Alfred is located on the Sunshine Coast and is a really nice little town. Some general impressions on Africa: It certainly is a Third World Country, a lot of difference from major cities to rural towns, Filth, don't know how they handle their garbage but a lot of it finds its way to the sides of the road. Everyone walks, very few motorbikes, cars are old. Prices seem reasonable but hard to judge standard of living because of the poverty.
DAY 12 WEDNESDAY SEPT. 28PORT ALFRED TO KNYSNA: The sun is out but it is chilly and windy. The temperatures have been a little cooler than we were led to believe. We thought the highs would be from 75-80, but actually they are in the mid 60"s. The wind really howled today, gusts up to 35 mph, made riding the motorcycle tiring. The area around Port Alfred is cattle country, really lush and green for grazing, large herds of cattle, with some feed lots sprinkled in. As we travelled through the city of Alexandria and Jefferson Bay, you can tell the difference between the poor areas. Both cities are prosperous, very clean and inviting. Port Elizabeth is a major center for shipping and commercial activities on the coast, with many container ships just off the coast. Almost ran out of gas today, when we finally stopped I had approximately 10-12 km left before I would run out (6 miles). I was glad to see Julian pull off into a petrol garage (that's a gas station to us) Our hotel for the night is very quaint, The Bamboo House is a collection of small units connected by a boardwalk thru a garden of trees, plants, and ponds. Kris says it's lovely. Could be anywhere in the world where the tropics exist, last night was more African but just as nice. Drivers in Africa are extremely polite, they will pull to the left side of the road maintaining speed and allow you to pass on the right. Works great.
DAY 13 THURSDAY SEPT. 29 KYNSNA REST DAY: Early morning for the Elephant Experience, Ride, walk, breakfast. It was fantastic. They are huge up close, the term Gentle Giants doesn't do them justice. The guides and the men riding the elephants with us were knowledgeable and really informative. We were riding only on a blanket, no basket to sit in, they are certainly different from riding a horse. Mine had a mind of its own, stopped to drink from a muddy watering hole, before we continued. We have some great pictures. Went to the viewing point The Heads where we took pictures of the Indian Ocean beating the coast with its waves. Spent the afternoon in Kynsna eating lunch on the waterfront and doing some shopping.
DAY 14 FRIDAY SEPT 30 KNYSNA TO OUDTSHOORN: In the early morning it was chilly but after a somewhat interesting breakfast we were on our way. The road was great, mountain passes to the Cango Ostrich Farm. Ugly birds but had fun, Fiona rode the birds like a true jockey. I fed one of the adult males, and it almost took off my fingers. Then it was off to the Cango Cave System and lunch. the caves are a series of large chambers with spectacular formations of limestone. Much larger than Mammoth Cave in Kentucky. Jonathan, Daryl, and Roger took off and rode the Swartberg pass. Too aggressive for me, I went to the Cheetah Experience where we saw Crocs, lions, and cheetahs. The Adley House was our hotel for the night, Kris liked the gardens. The dinner was a true African Braai - Ostrich steaks, sausages, eggs, potatoes, beetroot, salads and great desserts. It was a great day all the way around. As we move south along the coast it has become more European in feel and culture. Sheep farms, wine vineyards and a more upscale feeling. The cities and roads are cleaner, less trash along the roadways.
DAY 15 SATURDAY OCT 1 OUDTSHROON TO HERMANUS: Two Great Highlights, Ronnie's Sex Shop (Bought a T shirt) and Cape Agulhas. Ronnie's Sex shop is out in the middle of nowhere. Just a bar and cafe until someone added the word SEX to Ronnie's and then it became a must see and stop on the Western Cape. Cape Agulhas is the southernmost tip of Africa where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic. Great overlooks all day, hoping for good photos and some GoPro footage. Our support van broke down so its arrival with our luggage was delayed. Everything worked out and we had a long day about 450 kilometers travelled. Only 1 more day of the motorcycles is left. Head for Cape Town tomorrow .
DAY 16 SUNDAY OCT 2 HERMANUS TO CAPE TOWN: Our last day of riding was filled with tremendous roads, and spectacular views. A lot of places to see and kilometers to ride make this a long day of riding. A few of the roads would rival Australia's Great Ocean Road and also Route 1 in California. The road around Gordons Bay towards Cape Town is cut out of the side of the mountain, with sheer dropoffs to the Ocean. It was spectacular and would of been more fun except for the high winds, which limited the picture taking and views. I had to keep the bike on the road. We also stopped at Cape Point and saw the penquins. Cute little fellows. Lunch was at Cape of Good Hope, Southwestern tip of Africa. Rode the funicle up to the top and visited the lighthouse and had great views of the Cape and then walked down. Next stop was Chapman's Peak and then on to Signal Hill. Cape Town is laided out below. Didn't have the GoPro which was a mistake because the roads where fantastic and would of been a spectacular tape. Kris is not one for the sheer dropoffs and found this stretch a little bit uncomfortable on the back of the bike. She has done an awesome job of riding and taking pictures for someone with little experience. We arrived in Cape Town and turned in the bikes, had one last dinner with Julian and Jonathan and everyone else on the tour. Now we have Cape Town and Kruger. One Week Left.
DAY 17 MONDAY OCT 3 CAPE TOWN: In the morning we went to Canal Walk a large mall which is very similar to malls in America. The weight rules changed for our internal flights in Africa so we needed another piece of luggage. Our cabbie Ganief became our personal driver for our time in Cape Town told us where to go and it was very similar to Kenwood. The prices in the large cities are pretty typical of American prices, North Face, Levi, Adidas all similarly priced. In the Afternoon visited Robbins Island, prison for political prisoners. Nelson Mandela and other ANC individuals who spoke out against apartheid where confined on the Island. Very interesting tour, which was led by a former prisoner of 7 years.
DAY 18 TUESDAY OCT 4 CAPE TOWN: Great day, Granief took us to the African market downtown Cape Town, and then on a mini tour of the city streets. One area had the individual houses painted a different color - stopped at a spice shop where we purchased chili pepper and other spices and on to a small bodega/pony keg where I purchased two local delicacies: samoosas (a pastry pocket of beef spices) and an African donut. Visited the Cape Town Harley Davidson Dealer for a tshirt and then on to the waterfront just lazing around, lunch on the water and listening to music. Enjoyed the art shops and finally purchased 3 prints for the villa. Ended the evening at the waterfront for dinner, music and dancing. Tomorrow an early plane ride to Johannesburg and then to Kruger NP.
DAY 19 WEDNESDAY OCT 5 CAPE TOWN TO KRUGER: The day had an early start since we had to fly to Johannsburg and then get picked up by Viva Safari's for the trip to Tremansis Lodge in Kruger NP. It was a long day, but made entirely worth it by the late evening game drive. We saw 4 lions, they had taken down a Cape Buffalo in the morning and were hanging around after feasting on its carcass. 3 females and a young male about 2 1/2 years old. He was no more than 10 feet from our open safari vehicle, he could of climbed right in with us. The elephants were spectacular, a herd of 8-10 with young elephants in various stages. Also an evening barri meal which is a barbecue and then a hyena made a visit, 5 feet from the campfire. Close enough to see his eyes. A tiring day but eventful.
DAY 20 THURSDAY OCT 6 KRUGER: An all day game drive at Kruger National Park. By 9:00 in the morning we had seen: Elephants marching across the road with little ones in tow, Cape Buffalo grazing contently, and two huge bull Rhino's 20 feet from the safari vehicle. By lunch we had finished up the Big 5 with sightings of the lion and leopard. All told I think we saw 22 different animals. Wildebeast, Giraffe, Crocs, Zebra, Hippos, Warthogs, a Red Bushpig, Baboons and Vervet Monkeys. Various antelopes, Kudu, Waterbuck, Bushbuck, and Impalas, along with African Vultures, African Fisher Eagle, Grey Heron, Guinefowl, Southern Ground Hornbill, and Saddle Billed Stork. I think the Rhinos and Elephants are impressive, but after lunch we were surrounded by a herd of Giraffes, approximately 18, with some as close as 20 feet, they are magnificent animals who blend into their surroundings, and it was simply amazing. Tonight the evening dish was impala stew.
DAY 21 FRIDAY OCT 7 KRUGER: An early start for the Bush Walk. Walked through the Balaule Preserve to the Olifant River. We were introduced to all kinds of trees, bushes, and things we wouldn't know to look for or be aware of. Trees whose leaves are used as toilet paper in the bush, a toothbrush tree peppermint flavored to brush your teeth and keep them fresh. Using elephant dung as a medicine, light it on fire and breath the smoke. How impalas make their territory with their poop, and Elephants are indeed the biggest animal. Saw crocs and hippos in the river just relaxing in the pool of water. Hard to imagine that the guides consider the Hippo to be the most dangerous animal to man. Each had a high powered rifle if needed to protect us from becoming an animals meal.
FINAL IMPRESSIONS OF AFRICA: Both Kris and I had a fantastic time, Africa is a wonderful place to visit, the people are friendly and very courteous. The bike tour was great the roads were curvy, some mountains, some straights, but overall a good trip. When the roads need to be repaired they just put up a sign which says potholes so pay attention. The food is interesting tried somethings I wouldn't normally eat, Impala stew, Kudu steak, Ostrich fillets, Oxtail, and of course the Mopane worms. They have baked beans and fried tomatoes at breakfast and also at almost every meal The eggs tasted different, maybe the diet of the chickens. Saw animals which were so close if we fell out of the safari vehicle we would land on them. The elephants, hippos, and rhinos are just huge but for me the giraffes are the most elegant. The people on the tour made the trip really fun. Everyone worked together, looked out for each other, and got along fantastically, We feel we made friends that if we ever visit Australia, Germany or England we could give em a "ring" and just stop in. Also wouldn't be complete not to mention the wonderful trip that SAMA planned, the quirky places we stayed, neat and places you wouldn't find on your own, and Jonathan and Julian our guides who were fantastic. The only drawback might be the frikken plan trip of 18 hours. AFRICA IS CERTAINLY A GREAT PLACE TO VISIT.